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Food

HILLTOP CAFE,

404 Wickenden Street, Providence, 273-5300.

The Hilltop Cafe can best be described as your neighborhood cafe. You know, the kind of place where the staff knows your name. Located on Wickenden Street, where Troye's used to be, the restaurant has an informal pizzeria feel to it with its black-checkered tableclothes and booth seating. And the wall decorations -- a mural and travel posters of Grecia -- make the Greek influence clear before you even peek at the menu. If you're into experimenting, try the "Chicken Souvalki" ($5.25), a Greek-specialty sandwich featuring grilled marinated chicken, tomatoes, and onions rolled in a thick grilled pita. The grilled chicken breast ($6.95) is a little more traditional, but still delicious -- tender, lightly marinated chicken cut into strips and tossed with ziti in a butter sauce, then sprinkled with Romano cheese. For dessert, the apple pie is a buttery confection with big chunks of cinnamony apples and a terrific, flaky crust. Each forkful simply melted in our mouth.

Full review.








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